Un finde Gallego

This year for Easter vacation we booked a last minute trip to A Coruña, a small coastal city on the coast of the region Galicia. I’ve been avoiding this region in hopes of one day doing the Camino de Santiago. I wanted to first set foot in Galicia and in Santiago de Compostela with a backpack and not much else but I couldn’t stay away. We took the six hour train ride to A Coruña and I closed my eyes as we passed Santiago so that I wouldn’t spoil my future camino.

So, we stayed in A Coruña for two nights and it was just enough time to see everything we wanted and to get a feel for the city. Our hotel was on the port side of the city and it was located very central and close to some of the most beautiful buildings. We were so lucky to have sunshine and good weather especially as they say “it always rains during Semana Santa.” The people in A Coruña were kind and we found some of the best spots to eat.

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Our first night we had dinner at A Taberna de Cunquiero on Rua Estrella 22. We walked into this crowded bar/restaurant located on a busy street full of other places to eat. We squeezed into a spot at the bar and started out with some regional Mencía wine. Our drinks came with a small bowl of soup for a tapa. Later we ordered more wine and a ración of zamburiñas and berberechos. The quality of this shellfish was impeccable and Josemi and I were immediately impressed by A Coruña’s cuisine.

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Our second day in the city we dedicated to exploring. We walked along the beach and had a long walk around the peninsula and to the Torre de Hercules. There we came across views that made me homesick for Caifornia and Big Sur. The coast of northern Spain is so similar to California’s northern coast.

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That afternoon we were hungry for pulpo (octopus). We read reviews for Pulpeira O Fiuza on Avenida Navarra, 33 and decided to check it out. From the outside this place looks like an appliance store or something and Josemi and I were a bit wary about going in. Walking into the place we quickly saw that it was full of older Gallegos and we knew we had acertado (got it right), The menu is very simple, something that most great spots have, so we got an order of pulpo and a half order of padrón peppers. For desert we had some soft tetilla cheese with some membrillo (quice jelly). This place is a must, just be sure to ask a waiter for a table.

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On our last day in A Coruña we walked around the city, grabbed a long breakfast and wandered around wasting time before catching the bus back to Madrid. We came across Taller de Pan Banneton Galera, 29. It caught my eye because on the window I saw “SOURDOUGH.” Here is where we learned that sourdough in Spanish is masa madre. I am embarrassed at how long it took me to figure this out. I am such a bread lover that when I was kid they called me Bread Girl at my local supermarket, how did I not know about masa madre sooner? So the bread we got at this place was amazing. The perfect sourdough loaf and I have yet to find one as good in Madrid.

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With this nice spring weather I am getting a huge travel urge. This week we are booking trips for the next months and some food based summer road trips. Can’t wait!


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